Motorcycle Suspension Setup - Day 1

DAY 1 - What is “suspension” all about?

Your bike suspension is designed primarily to absorb the imperfections in the roads, and ensure that tyres keep contact with the roads. Most bikes suspension are based on a spring like you would find in a pen, mattress or trampoline but much stronger. To stop the spring from bouncing the tyre like a yoyo; the rate the spring moves up and down is controlled by “dampers”.

Dampers are “like oil filled bicycle pumps”. The pump will move faster or slower depending on the size of the hole the oil is being pumped through and the thickness of the oil. All bikes have both a spring and dampers. My bike has the spring on the outside of the damper on the rear wheel (called rear shock) but the front wheel suspension has the springs within the dampers hence you cannot see them. They are called the front forks.

The suspension for your front wheel is independent from the back wheel and can react differently to road and riding conditions.

Where did I start?
Before I touched the bike, I located the handbook for my bike as supplied by the manufacturer. The handbook contains details on what can be adjusted and where on the bike the knobs and screws are for setting up your bike front and rear suspension. Also it details the manufacturers recommended suspension settings for your bike. If you have aftermarket (third party) suspension, contact them.

Depending on your bike you may be able adjust some, all or none of the following

• Preload (Spring tension, based on your weight)
  
• Damping (speed the spring squashes and returns to normal )
  Compression (advanced damping control, speed the spring squashes)
  Rebound (advanced damping control, speed the spring returns to normal after been squashed)

Note that compression and rebound are part of damping.

After I had established what I can adjust on my bike and how to adjust it, I got a pen and paper and wrote down my bikes current settings so that I can return the bike to it if I make a mess of things. On my bike, this meant counting “clicks” as I turned the screws for the compression and rebound clockwise or anti-clockwise. Preload is easier to note and record as you can see what “notch” the rear spring is on and what “ring” the front is on.

The manufacturer has spent a lot of time and money on research and development and they have a financial incentive to ensure that my bike handles well, therefore the manufacturers recommended suspension settings for your bike will not be that bad. Compare what your current settings are for your bike against the manufacturers setting. If they are different, and you think your bike could handle better, have a go at setting your bike to manufacturers recommended settings.

You should be able to fiddle with your suspension and bring it back to the settings recommended by the manufacturer or your original setting before you go any further. Do not read any further unless you are competent with the above and acknowledge that this whole article is purely for information only. Please do not fiddle with your bike, then injure yourself and then blame me.

Sean Onipede - Click here for Motorcycle Suspension Setup Forum